ETH researcher turns natural plant oils into cosmetic gels

Zurich – ETH Pioneer Fellow Svitlana Mykolenko’s new method enables the use of natural plant oils in cosmetics, food and medicines. They can be converted into stable oleogels using plant proteins. She is now pursuing this approach with her start-up Olexir.

(CONNECT) ETH scientist Svitlana Mykolenko's start-up Olixir, which emerged from the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology in Zurich (ETH), can replace synthetic ingredients in creams, serums and scalp and hair care products with natural plant oils. As the ETH explains in a press release, this has been difficult until now because they often do not meet requirements such as dimensional stability and durability. This is why they have mostly been replaced by synthetic alternatives in cosmetics, but also in food and medicines. These are usually based on fossil or animal fats. In addition, edible fats are often rich in harmful trans fats and saturated fatty acids.

This is where Mykolenko comes in. She has developed a method that converts liquid vegetable oils into so-called oleogels, i.e. gel-like protein-rich fat alternatives. Olixir uses the "natural structuring power" of proteins to achieve this. According to the company, this results in "transparent, silky and stable formulations that revolutionize the use of oils in beauty care". Olixir also describes them as "healthier, more sustainable and scientifically more advanced".

Svitlana Mykolenko is currently in the ETH Pioneer Fellowship Program at ETH. According to ETH, it offers "innovative thinkers ideal conditions for starting their entrepreneurial activities". It is primarily aimed at doctoral students, but is also open to Master's students and postdocs. Pioneer Fellows receive a grant of 180,000 Swiss francs over twelve to 18 months from the ETH Foundation and ETH as well as comprehensive coaching. ce/mm

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